Northbank: St Paul’s

I absolutely love a river view, or any view really, and enjoying one combined with a decent meal it’s a very lovely way to spend an evening. Northbank is a stone’s throw from St Paul’s and does both view and food in style.

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Head Chef Jason Marchant is creating a new menu every  month that reflects the best ingredients of the season, largely from Cornwall, and I was invited to try the soon-to-be-launched 7-course tasting menu. It’s a veritable feast of gorgeous ingredients, unexpected combinations and beautiful presentation.

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We started with an amuse bouche of smooth, delicate carrot soup with a burst of crispy kale as a garnish, as well as a swirl of olive oil, followed by truffle chicken tortellini with a spinach puree and mushroom mousse. This couldn’t have been any more up my street – the mousse was so delicate it was almost foam, and perfectly mushroomy and truffly without being overpowering.

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The scallops that followed were among the best I remember ever having. Perfectly brown on the outside and just slightly translucent in the middle, served with charred leeks and the smoothest, creamiest celeriac puree on earth. There was also a seaweed crumb which added a definite sea-flavour, perfect with the scallops, and the right amount of saltiness to balance the dish.

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Rabbit mulligatawny followed which was rich and comforting, with tender meat and tiny pieces of vegetables. The next course is Cornish catch of the day, which was a pan-fried brill fillet (I resisted replying ‘brill-iant’ when asked how it was) served with creamy mash and crispy kale – it was meaty and salty, and the kale added crispy texture to compliment the creamy mash.

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There’s a choice of desserts so we had one of each; a knockout rich chocolate mousse with chocolate crumb and a rich, creamy ice cream (main pic), and a lemon meringue plate with a powerful lemon mousse, meringue swirl and crumb for texture. The lemon was good but no match for the chocolate; it was heaven in a bowl.

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We (unnecessarily) finished with a cheese plate, and the selection was arranged in the best order to eat them in according to strength, which I thought was a nice touch.

The service was efficient and very friendly, with General Manager Angelo explaining each dish as we went. The location’s great, just  a few metres from the Millenium Bridge and close to St Paul’s and Mansion House tubes. I’m definitely keen to go back to Northbank; the dishes change regularly to reflect the season and if the menu is as good as this one every month, they’re onto a winner.

*We were guests of Northbank but the 7-course tasting menu is a very reasonable £55 per person

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