I absolutely love a river view, or any view really, and enjoying one combined with a decent meal it’s a very lovely way to spend an evening. Northbank is a stone’s throw from St Paul’s and does both view and food in style.
Head Chef Jason Marchant is creating a new menu every month that reflects the best ingredients of the season, largely from Cornwall, and I was invited to try the soon-to-be-launched 7-course tasting menu. It’s a veritable feast of gorgeous ingredients, unexpected combinations and beautiful presentation.
We started with an amuse bouche of smooth, delicate carrot soup with a burst of crispy kale as a garnish, as well as a swirl of olive oil, followed by truffle chicken tortellini with a spinach puree and mushroom mousse. This couldn’t have been any more up my street – the mousse was so delicate it was almost foam, and perfectly mushroomy and truffly without being overpowering.
The scallops that followed were among the best I remember ever having. Perfectly brown on the outside and just slightly translucent in the middle, served with charred leeks and the smoothest, creamiest celeriac puree on earth. There was also a seaweed crumb which added a definite sea-flavour, perfect with the scallops, and the right amount of saltiness to balance the dish.
Rabbit mulligatawny followed which was rich and comforting, with tender meat and tiny pieces of vegetables. The next course is Cornish catch of the day, which was a pan-fried brill fillet (I resisted replying ‘brill-iant’ when asked how it was) served with creamy mash and crispy kale – it was meaty and salty, and the kale added crispy texture to compliment the creamy mash.
There’s a choice of desserts so we had one of each; a knockout rich chocolate mousse with chocolate crumb and a rich, creamy ice cream (main pic), and a lemon meringue plate with a powerful lemon mousse, meringue swirl and crumb for texture. The lemon was good but no match for the chocolate; it was heaven in a bowl.
We (unnecessarily) finished with a cheese plate, and the selection was arranged in the best order to eat them in according to strength, which I thought was a nice touch.
The service was efficient and very friendly, with General Manager Angelo explaining each dish as we went. The location’s great, just a few metres from the Millenium Bridge and close to St Paul’s and Mansion House tubes. I’m definitely keen to go back to Northbank; the dishes change regularly to reflect the season and if the menu is as good as this one every month, they’re onto a winner.
*We were guests of Northbank but the 7-course tasting menu is a very reasonable £55 per person