The last few days saw the opening of Pop Brixton, a new shipping container space housing bars, restaurants and event space nestled behind the station on Pope’s Road.
We were passing and had a little nose about and it was absolutely buzzing, with food heroes such as Miss P’s BBQ and Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen taking up residencies in the stacked containers. Most of the shops and restaurants in there are from Brixton which makes it feel less like Boxpark, while cool lighting and local art made the place look great.
It being the opening night (and Brixton on a Friday) it was so packed I couldn’t face queuing for hours to eat standing up outside (despite how bloody great Miss P is), so we wondered over to Market Row in search of something a bit quicker, ideally with seat or two. Wild Caper was the place! A tiny, sort-of mixed Mediterranean café with a menu of small plates and a little space on one of the benches outside the main shop was ideal.
We kicked off with a couple of Meantimes which went down a treat, then ordered a few dishes between us.
First up was a plate of fresh taramasalata, with the warmest, softest, most perfectly sour sourdough I can remember. The dip was rich, creamy and fishy but not overly so, and was made from undyed roe so didn’t have that odd pink hue you get from supermarket versions. It was drizzled with very good, almost-green olive oil, and was truly one of the best starters I’ve had lately.
After a pretty hefty wait (we had to abandon our cinema plans) came little falafel patties on a spiced yoghurt – they were extremely hot and very fresh, green and herby in the middle with lots of parsley and dill, and crisp and brown on the outside. The yoghurt was just spicy enough and the ideal accompaniment.
Lamb cutlets were well flavoured and juicy, but not quite meaty enough. I think Blacklock has ruined me for life re chops.
Our requested pork belly wrap actually arrived as chicken (main pic), and a sandwich rather than wrap – no biggie, it was still extremely good. Juicy thighs, tangy tomatoes and the bread was perfect for scooping up the remaining taramasalata – this was definitely not a diet friendly evening!
We were stuffed by the end, and the bill was about £35 for all the food and four beers. Bargainous. The staff were lovely and the manager so friendly – the good completely outweighed the little moans. Their breakfasts look amazing too. Will be back! We’ll see about Pop Brixton..